Steven Borowiec in Seoul 

Gangnam-styled: street traders face eviction in K-pop themed facelift

Mayor of Seoul's Gangnam district made famous by hit song is forcing out street sellers in effort to create 'global luxury district'
  
  

Street food in Seoul's Gangnam district
Street food in Seoul's Gangnam district. Photograph: National Geographic Image Collec/Alamy Photograph: National Geographic Image Collec/Alamy

It is a district of Seoul made famous by a viral hit that swept the world two years ago. But now the Gangnam area is at the centre of a row between officials who want to turn it into something of a theme park and local traders who fear their businesses will be threatened by a garish facelift.

In a drive to attract more foreign tourists to Gangnam, local mayor Shin Yeon-hee plans to turn the neighbourhood into a K-pop themed "global luxury district", complete with a K-Star Road and guides highlighting sites that have featured in popular music videos and TV shows. She hopes it will compare with London's Abbey Road and Rome's Piazza di Spagna as an area rich in pop-cultural heritage.

But for vendors such as Lee Seon-ja, the plan is disastrous. Lee has run a street food stall in Gangnam for the past 10 years, long before the area was made famous by Psy's hit single, her garish orange tent standing out against the grey concrete skyscrapers.

A steady stream of customers approach the counter, placing orders for deep-fried hot dogs and ddeokbokki, a signature Korean street dish of rice cakes served swimming in thick red pepper sauce. After ordering, one young woman says she has no cash. "That's OK," Lee tells her. "You can come back and pay me later."

Lee fears this way of life is threatened by the mayor's plan. The council has hired men to remove the vendors by force, saying they do not have permits to operate on the streets. Their plight became public this year when videos of food carts being knocked over appeared on YouTube.

Lee says she lost four carts in March and is in debt from having to replace all her equipment and support her family. "To be honest, I'm desperate," she said. "I wish I could find some other way of making a living but I have no other skills."

Lee and the other vendors say they would like to be a part of the area's K-pop facelift. "We've tried working with the government. We said we'd renovate our carts to make them look nicer, but they won't listen."

Chopping sesame leaves to be used in topping for ddeokbokki, Lee argues that street food stalls have long been part of Korean culture and should not be brushed aside. "We're a part of Gangnam too," she says.

Lee Seon-ja's name has been changed

 

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